Ferrari 512 BBi Boxer Project Hits a Major Disaster - How Bad is it ?

21 feb 2021
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Ferrari Boxer Project I discover the first disaster on this abandoned 512 Bbi
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Commenti
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    RatarossaRatarossa7 giorni fa
    • To get the filters out: Flip it upside down, use the larger hole and your scope, pull or shake it out. To clean: Fill 1/5 way with acetone, shake vigorously, pour out. Repeat if necessary...

      Godchi1d Von SteubenGodchi1d Von SteubenGiorno fa
    • Using the leak down tester put the piston TDC open the valve on the tester and listen for where the air is escaping. If it's coming from the exhaust port then it'll be exhaust valve or seat obvs. if it,s coming from inlet port then yes you guest it, it'll be inlet valve or seat. if you can hear it through the oil filler it'll be piston, rings or bore. And if you had the cooling system plumbed up and can see air bubbles it'll be the head gasket or cracked head. At the end of the day whatever it is the heads gotta come off. But as a last ditch attempt try squirting loads of WD 40 down the plug hole and leave it over night as it might be stuck rings that need loosening. If it looks like it might be one of the valves find a piece of dowel or something with a soft end and using it as a drift on the top of the valve give it a couple of taps with a hammer but not to hard and see if that frees it up. It,s probably got a bit of damp or mouse pee in it from sitting outside in British weather for 12 years.

      William WilliamsWilliam Williams6 giorni fa
    • Congrats on 150K mate! your content is absolutely inspiring.

      Reginald BowlsReginald Bowls6 giorni fa
    • CALL ED CHINA !!!!!

      Tommy HijmensenTommy Hijmensen6 giorni fa
    • Keep up the good work gratz;)

      Luis SilveiraLuis Silveira6 giorni fa
  • That's a gross sponsor...

    Matthew BickertonMatthew BickertonOra fa
  • How do you afford all these cars?

    Harold SweatheadHarold Sweathead2 ore fa
    • blood sweat and tears (beers) Lol

      RatarossaRatarossaOra fa
  • Would have been useful to soak the tanks before removing filters.!

    Rich PolecatRich Polecat6 ore fa
    • I already did in a previous video

      RatarossaRatarossa3 ore fa
  • Can't believe you wasted money on a rubbish inacurate DRAPER set!

    Phil Brownsey-HughesPhil Brownsey-Hughes8 ore fa
  • I feel you have a rust coating on the valve face and seat, my advice is before pulling the head #1put some penetrating oil in top of the cylinder #2 if you can get to the exhaust valve seat from the exhaust port spray coat the valve seat and face#3 then with the cam lobe clear tap the cam follower down the follower to allow the valve to open and snap closed several times to work the rust of those surfaces. #4 try to look at the valve sealing surfaces with the camera from the exhaust port. #5 after working the valve faces you may see some rust colored liquid penetrant #6 wash the valve sealing face with spray clean solvent#7 check your work with the camera and look for rust free metal on those surfaces #8 repeat the process 3 through 7 until clean metal is observed. #9 the if clean metal valve sealing faces are achieved look for pitting of those valve sealing faces #10 if serious pitting is found there then proceed with head removal. If there is a question of the acceptable degree of pitting then consult a technician familiar with valve work to see what degree of pitting could be considered acceptable maximum valve seat to face sealing life. Good Luck from Gary Elkhorn in NE Illinois USA!

    Gary ElkhornGary Elkhorn20 ore fa
  • Recommend replacing crank gaskets

    Leif GolderLeif Golder21 ora fa
  • If you agree to call it A - LU - MIN - UM from now on, I'll tell you how to clean that tank.

    Anthony RyanAnthony RyanGiorno fa
  • Deffo be stuck rings if you could get the engine up to temperature the engine would likely free them off but that is a risk for you to asses

    James MetcalfeJames MetcalfeGiorno fa
  • Hey man. Love your content, but please think about who you push as a sponsor. I know the £££ matters but you’re better than peddling that shit. Keep up the great work!

    Mike SperreyMike SperreyGiorno fa
  • I found this gem of a channel a little while ago and since then I'm binge watching. But.... I'm sure I speak for all of your subscribers and id love to see more about the man behind the camera, I'd love to know how you got into Ferraris in the first place and how you developed your knowledge and things about you etc etc. Much love from a Ratarossa fan.

    marc888rmarc888rGiorno fa
  • it was £1000 a cylinder 20 odd years ago - what's the going rate nowadays to rebuild a 12 cylinder Ferrari unit?

    Sean BSean BGiorno fa
    • i think its pick a number out of the sky them triple it

      RatarossaRatarossaGiorno fa
  • I gave you a thumbs up for keeping those white kicks clean!

    plumber802plumber802Giorno fa
  • Idea for getting the filter out... Ballon on the end of a small rubber pipe... pop the balloon end into the filter, inflate and drag it out of the hole.

    Matt WardMatt WardGiorno fa
  • Just pick up "Ferrari Engine Rebuilding for Complete Idiots"... and lots of beer!

    Jo-Jo bighikerJo-Jo bighiker2 giorni fa
  • V11 💩

    Caeser RomeroCaeser Romero2 giorni fa
  • I have no thoughts or suggestions. This is some of the best entertainment on YT.

    Keyboard DancersKeyboard Dancers2 giorni fa
  • Hi Scott , I remember when you only had 22k subscribers & now look ... you probably need to trade the BBi Boxer in for a F40 to get 1m subscribers lol

    Mark googleMark google2 giorni fa
  • Time for a K swap!

    apricityapricity2 giorni fa
  • Leakdowns are pretty pointless on a cold engine. We get a lot of metzgers with way higher milage. No disrespect to your friend but that engine is fine. Hose the cylinders down with some WD40. Couple minutes of running and it will come back around. There is absolutely no reason to tear that down.

    maxsav007maxsav0072 giorni fa
    • The only reason to tear that bad boy down would be corrosion. Of what you've shown their isnt any, not even surface rust on the cams. Tilt it up, pop the oil pan off and have a look at the bottom end to make sure their isnt any moisture. That engine is barely broken in, tearing down would be a shame. That parts/time and machine work are going to be astronomical to do it right, whilst you could be driving and enjoying it, and using that time and money to really bring the rest if the car around. Modern bushings/shocks would be a great place to start👍, cheers.

      maxsav007maxsav007Giorno fa
  • Is the fuel strainer magnetic? If so you can at least get it to the opening.

    gerrycooper56gerrycooper562 giorni fa
    • @Ratarossa bugger

      gerrycooper56gerrycooper56Giorno fa
    • plastic

      RatarossaRatarossa2 giorni fa
  • is it just me but I'm not convinced that engine has only done 6500 miles , it seems in a right state for such a low mileage vehicle

    darrin kingdarrin king3 giorni fa
  • Hi Scott, Do you ever receive any comments from the factory or from mechanics who built these cars? It would be so awesome to have someone who assembled these actually comment on how they intended the motor to be removed for servicing.

    Sean TaylorSean Taylor3 giorni fa
    • sadly nothing yet mate, but im sure at some point. I did have the guy who delivered this car in 1983 to the first owner comment ...that was very cool

      RatarossaRatarossa2 giorni fa
  • Fantastic. Looking forward to seeing the condition of the bore when you get the head off and review cylinder 12.

    Sean TaylorSean Taylor3 giorni fa
  • Could do with some new gloves?

    SamuelSamuel3 giorni fa
  • Take those fuel tanks to a radiator shop to be boiled out...

    George WarthenGeorge Warthen3 giorni fa
  • Stop being a w.o.f.t.a.m, if that car is worth what you say it is just rebuild the motor, we had purchased an abandoned v12 and did a boots and all rebuild. never looked back got to enjoy our car for years and didnt loose any money when it came time to sell it. It is now in a collection and is still being looked after.

    Ainsley IsraelAinsley Israel3 giorni fa
  • 12:12 How the heck am I gonna get that out, Easy, go to a plumbing store and get one of those metal lines with the extending prongs they use for cleaning plugged up lines, as they extend and contract as you screw the cap down and tape your camera wire to it as a guide, and use that to get it out. Also with the carbon build ups, their is modern stuff where you can actually feed the car some sort of an additive to burn out the carbon, they use it on VAG stuff abit as hoovies car wizzard showed it off, apparently its a mechanic only type thing, could be worth a shot, like see if it would be possible to get some, and then simply wet a cloth and see if that stuff comes off after taking the head off.

    Kavinsky SmithKavinsky Smith3 giorni fa
  • I suggest you get your own blasting cabinet, and fill it with Walnut Shells - clean your own engine parts! Also think-about a dunk-tank for degreasing items, and an ultrasonic cleaner for the small bits that you might lose or damage by blasting the rust/corrosion off of it.

    KidsinamericaKidsinamerica3 giorni fa
  • Fill the tanks with water and cut open. Give them a good clean, remove filter and TIG it back up. Someone can TIG it for you cheap of need be.

    Duncan TaylorDuncan Taylor3 giorni fa
  • Well, there's your reason the car was parked for years, it was busted.

    Mark HutchinsonMark Hutchinson3 giorni fa
  • A good radiator shop should be able to clean out the tanks. Radiators are aluminum and have more hidden places than these. I’ve had many an old gas tank cleaned at local radiator shops.

    Bryan PhillipsBryan Phillips3 giorni fa
  • Could you clean that problem cylinder with the blaster that they use to de-coke direct injection engines.

    Si shabadabSi shabadab3 giorni fa
  • Congrats and great video, keep up the great work😀🇳🇴

    Øyvind HanstadØyvind Hanstad3 giorni fa
  • Social distancing at its best!

    LeaveitoutloveLeaveitoutlove3 giorni fa
  • Cashman casino LOL

    Alasdair SmithAlasdair Smith3 giorni fa
  • You can clean it with some break fluid

    Emerson BrownEmerson Brown3 giorni fa
  • Worst casino add ever WTF!!! Go away!! Putting people in debt and gambling. Not good.

    Dan RDan R3 giorni fa
  • For years, I have cleaned nasty fuel tanks using Dawn dish soap, hot water, and sand. Generous sand, 1/4 tank water soap mix. Shake it and agitate for 15-20 minutes, drain and repeat. May need more than one repeat. Then rise out all the residual sand. Works like a charm.

    Jim ColemanJim Coleman3 giorni fa
  • You can try a radiator shop i know the ones here can seal test and i would guess clean gas tanks. You should check out the dry ice cleaning videos they are addictive and looks like you might want one.....i want one but they are expensive

    grand04gtgrand04gt3 giorni fa
  • And just 3 days later you're already over 152k. Great job!

    CE NewtonCE Newton4 giorni fa
  • For what it's worth...I just finished a major engine rebuild on my GT......and as I worked on disassembling the engine I took hundreds of photos of every detail as I moved along...by the time the rebuild was underway..I would have completely forgotten the correct orientation of various parts and pieces..the extensive photo library ( up close detail ) saved the day at least a dozen times...at the end of rebuild...she fired up on first crank and no oil or coolant leaks etc...just do this.. You ;ll be happy you did. Savanna ( . )( . )

    WN WildNatureWN WildNature4 giorni fa
  • Nice tools and nice shoes 😜😜!! Hurry to see the inside of the beast ! Thanks for your video ! Man white shoes

    Teddy TissotTeddy Tissot4 giorni fa
  • It is NOT a boxer motor. It is a 180° V12

    Christoph HorstmannChristoph Horstmann4 giorni fa
  • How much $ to bore+oversize pistons and head(s) job ?

    VideoByPatrickVideoByPatrick4 giorni fa
  • that tester can be used to perform a compression test to. so the engine would be spun over with the starter and the schrader valve would keep the highest reading

    Richard TRichard T4 giorni fa
  • Pistons should be okay, I'd give the cylinders a hone with new rings.....

    MrStoneycool69MrStoneycool694 giorni fa
  • Could be just a bit of carbon or rust on the valve seat causing your exhaust leakdown. Not sure of the injection models, but Chinetti here in the States converted my uncle's BB to a rack of six Webers and there is nothing more glorious than that song right behind your head. Damn ugly U.S. spec bumpers went in the bin too! 😉 Love the fact that you just dig right in!

    Jim UrrataJim Urrata4 giorni fa
  • Hi, U used a camera in the cylinders. Which brand is the camera? I hope to get an answer.....

    Ulf RasmussonUlf Rasmusson4 giorni fa
  • If that was one of the cylinders that was in the open position when it was turned off for the last time it very well could be some buildup around the valve seat. When you pull the intake and exhaust manifolds off you will be able to see the valves and seats. Pulling that head off of the studs requires a girdle that mounts above the head and you use the studs as the contact point to push against to lift the head evenly. Even as clean as it is don't even think about prying it up. I have made my own several times. Good luck! You will figure it out I'm sure!

    Mark GoodsonMark Goodson4 giorni fa
  • Put some 30w oil in that cylinder, rotate it a few times and recheck it. It's probably just gummed up piston rings.

    Mark GoodsonMark Goodson4 giorni fa
  • Congrats

    Truite H2007Truite H20074 giorni fa
  • Throw a belt on it ... remove the plugs ... fit gearbox and starter ... give the starter a direct feed which will turn engine over .... might just need to revolve to help clean up cylinder and reseat valves 😁😁.... with also crossing fingers 😁😁

    Derek McfadyenDerek Mcfadyen4 giorni fa
  • I told you to do the pressure test, but more importantly is get someone who only works on these engines and get it stared, also the fuel tank and its filter, basically get someone who specialises in cleaning aluminium with the right products to remove micro amounts of the surface but still making sure its not going to damage it, most aircraft maintenance places have the right gear to cleaning it, its that simple. :) Also oil pressure test as well and fuel line pressure test as well? get the engine running and put through a really good fuel and injection cleaner to get most of the crap out of the compression chamber or put the engine apart and get it reconditioned like new?

    7071t67071t64 giorni fa
  • Dry ice blasting is the best solution for the cleaning process👍🏾

    Alan PriceAlan Price4 giorni fa
  • Suggestion 1. Heads off and clean.

    IFFY_TOOIFFY_TOO4 giorni fa
  • 12:27 Google "Henry hoover tattoo pics" for a laugh

    IFFY_TOOIFFY_TOO4 giorni fa
  • Sorry way too much ads it is unbearable to watch and that Casino 🎰 ad was just bad.

    trued1trued14 giorni fa
  • Once I had a 911 that threw a big end bearing. Had to get the oil tank and oil cooler cleaned out professionally to get rid of any metal flakes. I used an aerospace company that specialized in this type of cleaning in the US. Should definitely be someone in the U.K. who can do the same.

    Tristan WhiteheadTristan Whitehead4 giorni fa
  • If you can't get it out, I would honestly just leave the filter in there. Install a new one on the line but leave the old one in there. Also cleaning them, metal ball bearings and a bit of fresh fuel, slosh it around, and dump the dirty fuel and ball bearings back out. Repeat until clean clear fuel comes out.

    Joe GoveiaJoe Goveia4 giorni fa
  • I have plenty of suggestions to make... I have watched the video and it seems that's everything needs a lot of work. I would replace the clutch and refurbished the flywheel. I would power coat everything taht was painted so it's not going to rust anymore. You can clean the gasoline tank first with lacker thinner and then use wheel acid. It's going to look like new. I would rebuild the engine totally. In that state anything could go wrong and it's going to be more expensive and time consuming to redo it

    Daniel UbedaDaniel Ubeda4 giorni fa
  • very informative video

    Min EsMin Es4 giorni fa
  • Wow, the click bait hyperbole is strong with this guy.

    Roger HundleyRoger Hundley4 giorni fa
  • Mustie´s just cleaned a tank using paint thinner.

    Eric BidaultEric Bidault4 giorni fa
  • Good job ratarrosa

    gabylanab9gabylanab94 giorni fa
  • Am I missing something? Can you not just unbolt and remove the fuel pump cradle to give you access to the inside of the tank?

    William O' CarrollWilliam O' Carroll4 giorni fa
  • Like your shaker kitchen cabinet doors i have the same, but thats the only thing i have in common with u, iam a Farrari less pauper. I notice u have no furniture in your conservatory i hope u didn't have to sell your furniture to afford the bbi.

    john byrnejohn byrne4 giorni fa
  • Clean that tank out with Acetone. It's used by the airforce to clean jet engines and such. Just wear gloves because the skin absorbs it very quickly and it will destroy your kidneys

    moss1transcendantmoss1transcendant4 giorni fa
  • Well done on 100k subscribers

    Steve ButcherSteve Butcher4 giorni fa
  • Definitely need to dig deeper

    Raymond HunterRaymond Hunter4 giorni fa
  • Fantastic as always, shame about plugging a gambling site at the beginning. Subbed and liked regardless, looking forward to the next one.

    Nigel HunterNigel Hunter4 giorni fa
  • If you have excessive valve clearance lash, It might indicate some debris on the valve seat allowing the valve not to fully seat and let air by. It depends where the air is always leaking out. Into the base or into the Exhaust manifold or the intake manifold. On most autos you have to remove them first and it is easier to determine what you need to do. Some times you can just use air and a chemical spray to clean it off. Or if the motor was able to run ( which yours is not) the debris is removed by the intake or exhaust flow . The main thing is to know it is not a stuck valve that can damage the piston.

    CarlyG18CarlyG184 giorni fa
  • Adam ruins Everything!!!!!!!

    martymarty4 giorni fa
  • Ah mate selling casino games talented guy sorry but bottom of the barrel taking money for crap your better than that maybe reconsider

    The SmokeThe Smoke4 giorni fa
  • Love watching you do the work on the bb. There's no way i would want to pull down my V12. Great content. Can't wait to finally see it run.

    Tony SkimanTony Skiman4 giorni fa
  • hyper-base.do.am

    Yurii Pan'kivYurii Pan'kiv4 giorni fa
  • Get yourself an engine stand buddy. It's no good having it lying on the ground. If you are going to put some light oil in the cylinders to try free the rings you need to be able to flip the engine, especially on a boxer. Also, if you have the funds, I would take that engine to someone who knows them. Taking that engine out is not a job I would want to do twice! Good luck mate.

    watchyMCFCwatchywatchyMCFCwatchy4 giorni fa
  • Lol ads for phone games.

    mcspikeskymcspikesky4 giorni fa
  • Il mio umile consiglio stai alla lontana dei modelli Ferrari anni 80 90, parola di Luca Cordero di Montezemolo

    Antonino TipaAntonino Tipa4 giorni fa
  • I honestly believe an "Italian tune up" would fix that compression, hahaha. Give it some ATF or mystery oil in that cylinder first to free the rings. That said, I imagine you'll be doing a more proper method.

    802 Garage802 Garage4 giorni fa
  • You got 100k subs, don't sell out on crummy app promotions man.

    Atypical DriverAtypical Driver4 giorni fa
  • I’ve got to admire your nerve tackling such a project. Loving it

    Matt SkinnerMatt Skinner4 giorni fa
  • I love that tip for timing ,belts,,cut them in half width ways so you can slide the new ones on without moving the sequence, ,remove what's left of the old one slide the new one home, job done as big Ed says

    GWGW4 giorni fa
  • Hardly a disaster..... a gunked up compression ring and a bit of carbon deposit (with no pitting) on one out of twelve, along with a bit of heavy residue in the fuel tanks. Appreciate you need to sell the drama, but come on..... The condition of this barn find, you are still the luckiest sod I have ever seen.

    Jason CraggsJason Craggs5 giorni fa
  • The unbecoming fish essentially pick because helen internationally turn off a numerous broccoli. imaginary, thundering wallet

    Kyle MillerKyle Miller5 giorni fa
  • I saw someone comment on split crankcases. I've done a lot of those rebuilding Corvair engines. I only learned the trick on the last few rebuilds. When putting the sides back together, tighten the fasteners just a bit and sneak up on the correct torque while bashing the whole lot with a big rubber mallet. This will prevent any slight misalignment that might cause excess crank friction. And those who say you need a compete engine tear down and rebuild are absolutely correct. At this level corner cutting is, or shouldn't be on. Also ignore the people who encourage modding the engine, don't even think about it. The car's value as a classic will tank. -dave

    dgwachteldgwachtel5 giorni fa
  • I apologize for the long post in advance but here are some of my adventures in engine rebuilding and racing. I started out Ice Racing Corvairs on lakes In upstate NY . Some of these cars were in pretty good condition all things considered. My racing buddy and I even got a couple of cars for free. The first thing I always did was take the boxer six cylinder out and tear it completely down. Next step after clean up was to hone the cylinders and remove the ridge at the top with a reamer, then scratch it up with a hone with the proper stones in it. If not done properly the rings won't seal. (Been there on an MGB rebuild, no tee shirt though) cut and grind the valves, replace all the seals and reassemble. If required, I replaced iffy parts with new and better pieces. The last ice racing motor I did was for a little Fiat 850 for which the innards were race prepared by the race shop and then assembled by me. It featured, spoilers front and rear, an aero "wind screen", modified brakes and suspension and, blew the Corvairs out the the (ice) water, during the weekends that I could race - calculus quizzes on alternate Mondays :( I had three wins, two seconds, one third and one DNF (hit up the rump by another competitor in a Corvair. I had two free donor wrecks so the broken parts were easily replaced. When I got enough money I went formula car racing. I started out in a beat up Cooper T76 that was so bad that I stuck it in the back of the barn and walked away - the car scared the crap out of me and needed a ground up rebuild which I couldn't come close to affording. I got taken to the cleaners on that one. Then I purchased a used 1 liter F3 Brabham BT28/35 in great condition and after that two separate Formula Fords, the last one a new 1986 Crossle. (Too tall to fit into a Swift. Also too tall for an ex Micheal Andrtti Formula Atlantic car a wealthy guy wanted me to test for him) Later on I got to test a Skip Barber turbo SAAB, doing a quick lap that would have put me fifth on the grid, but alas I ran out of the budget needed to run the next season of the pro series. I bought my FF cars from Skip and also attended two of his schools - got some great coaching! In all the formula cars, particularly the FF's where double cutting the valves and seats wasn't allowed, I refurbished the heads between each race after doing compression, and leak down tests with the engines still installed in the car. In the leak down tests a bad cylinder could be a valve or a bad compression ring or scored cylinder wall. With the cylinder vertical, carefully squirt a little oil into the cylinder and test again. If the leak down test result is better then the cylinder and rings are probably OK and it's most likely leaky valves. Also measure the bores to make sure they are straight.and not unduly worn, same with the pistons. Check with Ferrari or an authorized rebuilder for the relevant dimensions and allowable tolerances. I had a local speed shop do all of the crack testing, lightening (if the pistons were new), balancing, con rod straitening, crank shaft referb, decking and other machine work. Zyglo testing discovered a slight crack that wasn't visible to the eye in one of my ice racing pistons which would have meant a piston failure at some point. It was replaced and race prepped. They were cast pistons, the F3 car pistons were all forged but along the way I had to replace a couple of them as well. At some point the ignition was too far advanced and I was lucky to not have melted one piston clean through. I was more careful about timing and also went to a heat range cooler plug. The racing engine pistons were expensive even then and that was for a an obsolete push rod vintage F3 engine. All pistons and rods were balanced end to end, and matched in weight and the journals machined round with the correct clearance for "undersized" bearings. Your engine probably won't require much shop work as it is low mileage although sitting around for all of those years might have resulted in bore damage. Crack testing and component replacement is lots cheaper than losing a complete engine as I did when my FF engine exploded at about 130 mph due to a faulty small end bearing. My go to builder was a Rensselaer Polytechnic Graduate mechanical engineer who ran a racing and Ferrari engine rebuild shop on Long island. Long story short, the failure was a direct result of some corner cutting by the local speed shop that was unbeknownst to me. Rather than ordering a set of small end bearings from the Long Island shop he had three proper bearings but decided to make one out of another small end bearing or from scratch. The "new" bearing was too soft and pounded out breaking the rod just below the journal. Nothing was salvageable on the engine except the manifolds and the Weber Carb that was modified for Formula Ford. I sold the carb to a guy through Apex Speed for $200.00 wich would be well over $500.00 in today's money. I had just replaced the block with a new race prepared one from my Long Island guy! It was turned into Swiss Cheese. That was my last season of racing. I was out of cash so the engine was never replaced (more than $5000.00 for a new FF engine depending upon the builder back in 1990) I was stupid to use a local speed shop but the guy did drag race engines so I expected good work, Silly me! All in all I've done about 10 engine rebuilds for racing and consulted on one V8 Camero rebuild. The guy, my old ice racing buddy, didn't follow my advice about replacing the pistons with oversize ones or knurling the old pistons when the bore measurements indicated that that was absolutely required. It smoked like a steam engine and he got rid of it soon after. We are still friends but from time to time I bring it up just to have a little fun! I also did a modified Corvair engine for his dune buggy. No dyno test but I reckon it made over 180 HP. At the time it was the fastest car I'd driven until I bought the F3 Brabham. I made a similar mistake earlier on by way of a stupid oversight. I didn't properly prepare the bores on my MGB rebuild and had to do a lot of the work again, this time correctly. It was so bad that it pushed the rear sump cover seal partially out and sprayed oil all over the bell housing and engine bay. Oops. By the way, I had a great week in England shopping for race cars, got to go the the Earls court motor show which was just around the corner from my bread and breakfast. The used race car guys and I went testing at Goodwood and I got to hang out for a bit with Derick Bell a very nice and humble chap, who was there testing for the John Wyer team. Before I left, I put a down payment on my beautiful Brabham. An F 3 car on the installment plan :) Everyone was so nice I was "homesick" for England for a week after getting back to the states. Anyway - Good luck. -dave

    dgwachteldgwachtel5 giorni fa
  • Those liners should have Nikasil, it's not recommended that you rehome them it's best just to clean them. The piston rings are cast and very expensive. Best bet is to get in there and clean the valves off with some mystery oil to get them to seat properly. It still would be a good idea to pull both cylinder heads and replace the head gaskets. Also highly recommend that you split the engine to transmission and do the oil drain updates. I'm sure you can find the original Ferrari bulletin update

    vince vamrestorationvince vamrestoration5 giorni fa
  • 1. Use diesel fuel to clean out your tanks 2. You could consider just leaving that filter in the tank as it's not going to do any damage or if it floats you might be able to fill up the tank and float it out. 3. When doing the leak down test is the air coming out of just the exhaust and intake or is it coming out of a crank case port. If it's the former then you have a valve issue. Also think about how the valves were positioned with the piston at the position it was left in.

    racerx8410712racerx84107125 giorni fa
  • 512BB resto in a glorified shed..luv it !

    Leon PhelpsLeon Phelps5 giorni fa
  • So personally I would not use any type of acid or caustic solution to clean the gas tank. Simple green and other cleaners will continue to corrode the aluminum. My idea would be to check for a radiator shop. They can boil out radiators and work with aluminum. I would see if they are able to do it.

    G MG M5 giorni fa
  • I want to see a Porsche Boxer in a Subaru everyone says “just use a Subaru 6cyl” but you can’t get that Porsche sound

    ThatCamoWrxThatCamoWrx5 giorni fa
  • seen all of these cars in person I love the boxer keep up the good work

    Bike life HarryBike life Harry5 giorni fa
  • Dont worry about the Shroder' valve, they are only there when you look for them.

    Andrew ShelleyAndrew Shelley5 giorni fa
  • What happen to the theft of the items out if it in storage

    leith bodinleith bodin5 giorni fa
    • still lost

      RatarossaRatarossa5 giorni fa
  • Have you see the interview with John Amette here on you's tube? Thee Ferrari mechanic... worth getting in touch with him perhaps?

    Russell RobsonRussell Robson5 giorni fa
  • I'm going to be a nosey prick, how do you fund buying these cars to start with?

    AndyWAndyW5 giorni fa
  • put some Marvel Mystery oil down all cylinders let it sit a week then turn the engine over slowly with socket

    Timothy CoteTimothy Cote5 giorni fa
  • Hi just watched a hoonigan video, they cleaned an nsx with dry ice best cleaning job I've seen enjoying your vids

    Jason FlahertyJason Flaherty5 giorni fa
  • In my opinion leaving the sound from the time laps and having music in the background is pretty annoying. Like if you agree

    Panayiotis AlkiviadesPanayiotis Alkiviades5 giorni fa
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